LOWARI TOP

Lowari Top
The 3118 meter forested pass between Dir and Chitral is normally open to vehicles from June through at least October. It’s incredible how the weather beaten road scrambles over it, laboring in wide loops up the Dir side; and then plunging into Chitral in about 50 sphincter tightening switchbacks. It is roughly a 70 km or 3 1/2 hours drive between Dir town and Drosh on the Chitral side. However, don't be mistaken about this short distance. Visitors, for example travelling from Peshawar to Chitral, might have to travel for 14-15 hours before reaching their destination.

The summit of Lowari Top is mostly covered in clouds throughout the year. But lucky travellers can experience a breath taking view on both sides on a clear sunny day. There are high winds on the summit at all times which may not be enough to blow you off but are enough to carry away your hats or other small things so hold on tight to them. Upon reaching the summit, the visitor will find a humble stone made hut which acts as a customs checkpost and an adjacent Chai Khana (Tea Stall).

In early and late summer you may see gypsy Gujar families on the road with their tents and their belongings. A hole is in the mountainside on the south side is one end of a tunnel meant to go under the summit to make the crossing possible all year round. But there are technical and financial problems and it may never be finished.

HISTORY OF KALASH

History
The Kalash were ruled by the Mehtar of Chitral from the 1700s onward. They have enjoyed a cordial relationship with the major ethnic group of Chitral, the Kho who are Sunni and Ismaili Muslims. The multi-ethnic and multi-religious State of Chitral ensured that the Kalash were able to live in peace and harmony and practice their culture and religion. The Nuristani, their neighbors in the region of former Kafiristan west of the border, were invaded in the 1890s and converted to Islam by Amir Abdur-Rahman of Afghanistan and their land was renamed Nuristan.

Prior to that event, the people of Kafiristan had paid tribute to the Mehtar of Chitral and accepted his suzerainty. This came to an end with the Durand Agreement when Kafiristan fell under the Afghan sphere of Influence. Recently, the Kalash have been able to stop their demographic and cultural spiral towards extinction and have, for the past 30 years, been on the rebound. Increased international awareness, a more tolerant government, and monetary assistance has allowed them to continue their way of life. Their numbers remain stable at around 3,000. Although many convert to Islam, the high birth rate replaces them, and with medical facilities (previously there were none) they live longer.

Allegations of "immorality" connected with their practices have led to the forcible conversion to Islam of several villages in the 1950s, which has led to heightened antagonism between the Kalash and the surrounding Muslims. Since the 1970s, schools and roads were built in some valleys.

BABA SIYAR SHRINE

The famous chitrali poet BABA SIYAR shrine.