Pages

Reshun chitral

Wednesday, May 4, 2011

About Chiral

CHITRAL is undoubtedly the most romantic, captivating and enchanting place in the majestic Hindukush Range. It is a mountainous area in the extreme north of Pakistan. The landscape of Chitral is extremely mysterious with its steep harsh mountains, lush green valleys, beautiful meadows and big glaciers which have made it one of the most difficult and inaccessible areas of the world. Chitral is divided into small valleys by the mighty Hindukush range. The highest peak in this range is Terichmir, which lies at a height of 25,263 feet, just 36 miles away from Chitral town. It is also called the palace of fairies. No mountain in the region is less than 4,000 feet and over 40 peaks have an altitude of 20,000 ft. Chitral is surrounded by the Wakhan, Badkhshan, Asmar and Nooristan provinces of Afghanistan in the north, west and southwest. On its southern boundary lies the upper district of Dir, while in the east is Gilgit-Baltistan and in the southeast the valley of Swat and Kohistan district.



The valley of Chitral lies at an elevation of 4,900 ft from the sea level. The total area of Chitral is 14,850 sq km and the area situated between 35 & 37 N and 71 22 and 74 E. The total population of Chitral was 318,689 according to 1998 census. The weather in Chitral is extremely harsh and cold in winter while the summer it is very pleasant. There are certain famous places and valleys in Chitral like Garam Chashma valley, Booni, Golen valley, Yarkhun valley, Madaklasht valley, Arandu, Birir, Rumbur and Bumburate which can be called certainly as paradise on earth. The latter three valleys are the Kalash valleys which are the repository of one of the unique cultures and mysterious histories of the world. This culture is certainly the residuary of the pre-historic age. To the local people it is Chetrar, while for the ancient people and others it is Qashqar or Kashqar.


The people of Chitral are called Khow with a great ethnic diversity. In the pages of history, Chitral was known as an independent princely state. After the independence, Chitral was the first state to declare accession to Pakistan. In 1970, it was declared as district of Pakistan and attached to the Malakand Division. It lies at the junction of old Chinese Empire, Indian Empire, the ex-Russian Empire and Afghan kingdom. It came under the consideration of British Empire when after feeling the sense of Russian danger, the British government of India sought new friends in mountainous range and the tribal belt. Then Major John Bidulph visited the country in 1876 and reported to the government of India about the utility of Chitral. So friendship between the British and Chitral started which resulted in the famous Chitral incident of 1895.



HISTORY:

From ancient times, Chitral was an important point on the trade routes from northern Afghanistan (ancient Bactria) and the Tarim Basin to the plains of Gandhara (in northern Pakistan), and the region near Jalalabad in eastern Afghanistan. The ruling family of Chitral traces its decent from Baba Ayub, a disciple of the saint Kamal Shah Shamsuddin Tabrizi, who settled in the village of Lon and Gokher. According to family tradition, Ayub was a son of Fareidun Hussein, tenth son of Shah Abu'l Ghazi Sultan Husain Baiqara Bahadur Khan, Padshah of Khorasan. However, Persian, Central Asian or Mughal sources are silent on such a connection. Baba Ayub is said to have arrived in Chitral from Khorasan, married the daughter of the ruler, a supposed descendant of Alexander the Great. The grandson of this marriage founded the present dynasty. Accordingly, the family actually owes their fortunes to Sangan Ali, sometime Minister to Shah Rais, ruler of Chitral during the sixteenth century. His sons seized power following his death in 1570, establishing a new ruling dynasty over the state.


The present ruling dynasty descends from the second of these two sons. The period between Sangan 'Ali's accession to power and modern times is clouded by fratricidal warfare, contests for power with the former Raisiya dynasty, the Kushwaqte family and endless disputes with neighbouring rulers. So much so that it is nearly impossible to date the reigns or lives of many of the rulers. Only during the middle of the nineteenth century, when permanent Dogra rule was established in Kashmir, European travellers, administrators and scholars began to enter the area and take an interest in its history, and gradually the history of the country, its people, languages and culture, began to emerge from the mists of time. However, this task is far from complete and it will be many years before Chitral yields up all its mysteries and secrets.


Shah Afzal II, who ruled from the beginning of the nineteenth century until its middle, fought against the Afghans in support of his allies, the rulers of Badakhshan. He also fought against the Dogras and against his Kushwaqte kinsmen, but later switched sides and concluded treaty relations with the Maharaja of Jammu and Kashmir. Thereafter becoming a protectorate of Kashmir in return for an annual subsidy to pay for troops and the supervision of the Afghan border. Aman ul-Mulk, Afzal's younger son, succeeded his brother in 1857. After a brief dispute with Kashmir, in which he laid siege to the garrison at Gilgit and briefly held the Puniyal valley, he accepted a new treaty with the Maharaja in 1877. After a relatively long reign, he died peacefully in 1892. Aman's younger son, Afzal ul-Mulk, proclaimed himself ruler during the absence of his elder brother. He then proceeded to eliminate several of his brothers, potential contenders to his throne.

This initiated a war of succession which lasted three years. Afzal ul-Mulk was killed by his uncle, Sher Afzal, the stormy petrel of Chitral and a long-time thorn in his father's side. He held Chitral for under a month, then fled into Afghan territory. Nizam ul-Mulk, Afzal ul-Mulk's eldest brother and the rightful heir, then succeeded in December of the same year.


At about that time, Chitral came under the British sphere of influence following the Durand Agreement, which delineated the border between Afghanistan and the Indian Empire. Nizam ul-Mulk's possessions in Kafiristan and the Kunar Valley were recognised as Afghan territory and ceded to the Amir. Within a year, Nizam was himself murdered by yet another ambitious younger brother, Amir ul-Mulk. The approach of a strong military force composed of British and Kashmiri troops prompted Amir to flee with to his patron, the Khan of Jandul. The British had decided to support the interests of Shuja ul-Mulk, the youngest legitimate son of Aman ul-Mulk, and the only one untainted by the recent spate of murder and intrigue. After entering Chitral and installing the young Mehtar, British and Kashmiri forces endured the famous defence against a seven-week siege by Sher Afzal and the Khan of Jandul. The British then captured Sher Afzal and Amir ul-Mulk, deporting them both to Madras. Although Shuja ul-Mulk was now firmly established as ruler, the Kashmiris annexed Yasin, Kush, Ghizr and Ishkoman.

Kashmiri suzerainty over Chitral ended in 1911, Chitral became a salute state in direct relations with the British.


Mastuj, also removed from the Mehtar's jurisdiction in 1895, was restored to him within two years. Shuja reigned for forty-one years, during which Chitral enjoyed an unprecedented period of internal peace. He was probably the first ruler to journey outside Chitral, visiting various parts of India and meeting a number of fellow rulers. He supported the British during the Third Afghan War in 1919, during which four of his sons and the Chitral State Forces served in several actions guarding the border against invasion. Nasir ul-Mulk, succeeded his father in 1936. He was the first ruler of his line to receive a modern education, becoming a noted poet and scholar in his own right. He took a deep interest in military, political and diplomatic affairs, and spent much of his time on improving the administration.


Dying without a surviving male heir in 1943, his successor was his younger brother, Muzaffar ul-Mulk. Also a man with a military disposition, his reign witnessed the tumultuous events surrounding the transfer of power in 1947. His prompt action in sending in his own Body Guard to Gilgit was instrumental in securing the territory for Pakistan. The unexpected early death of Muzaffar ul-Mulk saw the succession pass to his relatively inexperienced eldest son, Saif ur-Rahman, in 1948. Due to certain tensions he was exiled from Chitral by the Government of Pakistan for six years. They appointed a board of administration composed of Chitrali and Pakistani officials to govern the state in his absence. He died tragically in a plane crash while returning to resume charge of Chitral in 1954.



Saif ul-Mulk succeeded his father at the tender age of four. He reigned under a Council of Regency for the next twelve years, during which Pakistani authority gradually increased over the state. Although installed as a constitutional ruler when he came of age in 1966, he did not enjoy his new status very long. Chitral was absorbed and fully integrated into the Republic of Pakistan by Prime Minister Bhutto in 1971. In order to reduce the popular Mehtar's influence, he, like so many other princes in neighbouring India, was "invited" to represent his country abroad. He served in various diplomatic posts and retired from the service as Consul-General in Hong Kong in 1989.

Friday, May 15, 2009

Mastuj

From Buni the paved road degenerates into a jeep track and continues eastwards up the Mastuj Valley, revealing awesome views of Buni Zom. Parwak could serve as a base to explore the glacial valleys spilling down from the Buni massif.

The village of Mastuj (2400m) is three hours (110km) from Chitral town along a very rough 4km side road. It’s a good base to break the journey between Chitral and Gilgit, and you could easily lose time doing some lovely day walks in the fields and side valleys here, always under the snowy gaze of Tirich Mir. You must sign in with the police (at the bottom of the bazaar) if staying overnight.

Until 1880 (when the mehtar of Chitral took it) Mastuj was the ‘capital’ of the Kushwaqt state stretching eastwards into Ghizar. A British garrison confined here during the 1895 siege was rescued by the column that crossed the Shandur Pass. The old royal fort stands next to the Hindu Kush Heights Hotel.

From the south, Laspur Gol enters Yarkhun Gol. Up this canyon are the villages of Gosht (6km from the Mastuj turn-off), Harchin (14km from Gosht), Brook Laspur (2km from Gosht) and Sor Laspur (sometimes called just Laspur, 6km from Brook Laspur), and the road to Shandur Pass, two to three hours by jeep (42km) from Mastuj

Saturday, April 25, 2009

British Intervention in Chitral 1895

Tribesmen in Chitral (district in northernmost Pakistan) remained hostile to the British, who had entered the area and established an agency (1889). In 1895, a coup d'etat in Chitral cost the life of the ruling chief, and the victors attempted to drive out the British representative, which necessitated the dispatch of a 16,000-man British expedition to reduce the rebels. At the Malakand Pass, on April 3, 1895, the invading troops overwhelmed some 12,000 Chitralis, who lost more than 500 men before giving up control of the pass; on the other side about 70 were killed or wounded. A British garrison was later set up in Chitral, which was annexed to British India. Tribal rebellions occurred, but the British presence eventually brough peace in 1898.

*****

In January 1895, Nizam-ul-Mulk was murdered while out hawking at Broz, at the instigation of his younger half-brother, Amir-ul-Mulk. Amir-ul-Mulk then seized the Chitral fort and sent a deputation to Lieut. Gurdon, assistant political agent at Chitral, demanding his immediate recognition as Mehtar. Lieut. Gordon replied that the orders of the government must be awaited. Amir-ul-Mulk's sister was married to Umra Khan and there is little doubt that the murder of Nizam-ul-Mulk was inspired by Umra Khan in conjunction with the party of Sher Afzal. Amir-ul-Mulk being a tool in the hands of the Pathan Chief, who was used in a similar manner by the Amir of Afghanistan, Umra Khan remained in possession of the Narsat (or Narai) district, and all proposals of Nizam-ul-Mulk to attempt the recovery thereof by force had been discouraged. Shortly after the murder of Nizam, Umra Khan with a force of 1200 fighting men and 1500 coolies crossed the Lowari Pass and occupied Lower Chitral, giving out that he was conducting a religious war against the inhabitants (Kafirs) of the Bashgal area. He asked Amir-ul-Mulk to join him but the latter was both unwilling and unable to comply. Umra Khan accordingly laid siege to Drosh Fort. Meanwhile, the political agent at Gilgit, Surgeon Major George Robertson, had been sent to Chitral by the government to report on the situation with his escort of 400 men, 300 being Kashmir state forces. He occupied Chitral Fort. Robertson had previously demanded an explanation from Umra Khan as to the presence of his forces in Chitral and requested him to immediately withdraw. Umra Khan, however, replied that his aim had been to assist and strengthen Amir-ul-Mulk and combine with him on an attack on the Kafirs. Since Amir-ul-Mulk had refused his friendship and acted in a hostile manner, therefore he, Umra Khan, had no alternative left to him but to act as he had done. Owing to the poor and weak leadership of Amir-ul-Mulk and the treachery of Mehtarjao Kokhan Beg and other influential Chitralis, the resistance by the Chitralis collapsed and on 25th January 1895 they were driven away from their position before Drosh Fort itself until the 9th February when the whole garrison surrendered to Umra Khan. After losing the Drosh Fort, the Chitralis concentrated at Ghairat position.

According to the report of Surgeon Major George Robertson dated 1st February 1895, all was well at Chitral and the Chitralis were cheerful and helpful. He also reported that Ghairat, a strong defensive position 10 miles north of Drosh, was still held and that Umra Khan's followers had deserted him. Suddenly, however, the whole picture changed by the reappearance of Sher Afzal, who was supported by the ruling class of Adamzadas and their adherents. On the 27th of February, Sher Afzal demanded that Robertson along with his troops should withdraw to Mastuj and it became apparent that Sher Afzal and Umra Khan had joined hands to induce the British Officers and their troops to quit Chitral territory, by force if necessary. Having achieved that, the two chiefs would decide who should be the Mehtar. The Adamzadas in the beginning did not side openly with Sher Afzal, but before the end of February they changed their mind and practically joined him in a body along with their followers. Ghairat position was thus denuded of its defenders and was occupied by Sher Afzal's outposts. Mehtar Amir-ul-Mulk now made overtures to Umra Khan. Robertson therefore placed him in custody in the fort and formally recognized Shuja-ul-Mulk, a boy of 14 years old, provisional Mehtar pending orders of the Government of India.

The British garrison at Chitral Fort now amounted to 419 fighting men besides the administrative staff, transport personnel, servants and 52 Chitralis. The strength of Umra Khan's force is not known. It was variously computed at 3000 to 5000 men. On 3rd March, Sher Afzal arrived along with armed men following and took positions on the Chitral plain, mainly in the vicinity of the fort. In order to ascertain the strength of the enemy, the garrison of the fort made an ineffective sortie on the afternoon of 3rd March. They suffered heavy casualties and made a difficult retreat to the fort where they were besieged from 3rd March until 19th April, 1895. During the siege period, Chitralis gained two other successes firstly at Reshun where two British officers were captured, their following destroyed and 40,000 rounds of ammunition taken, secondly the annihilation of about 100 men of the 14th Sikhs under Captain Ross at Kuragh defile.

The British garrison at Chitral Fort held out until the approach of a small force from Gilgit under Colonel Kelly which caused Chitralis to withdraw. The Chitral relief under General Low which had approached from the direction of Malakand and the Lowari pass arrived a week later and took Sher Afzal prisoner, while Umra Khan fled to Afghanistan. Sher Afzal with Amir-ul-Mulk and their leading followers were deported to India on the 1st May and the selection of Shuja-ul-Mulk as Mehtar was conformed. A prominent British garrison was ordered to be located at Chitral and it comprised two infantry battalions, one company of Bengal Sappers and Miners and one section of Mountain Battery with two guns. This garrison was annually relieved.

British Intervention in Chitral 1895

Tribesmen in Chitral (district in northernmost Pakistan) remained hostile to the British, who had entered the area and established an agency (1889). In 1895, a coup d'etat in Chitral cost the life of the ruling chief, and the victors attempted to drive out the British representative, which necessitated the dispatch of a 16,000-man British expedition to reduce the rebels. At the Malakand Pass, on April 3, 1895, the invading troops overwhelmed some 12,000 Chitralis, who lost more than 500 men before giving up control of the pass; on the other side about 70 were killed or wounded. A British garrison was later set up in Chitral, which was annexed to British India. Tribal rebellions occurred, but the British presence eventually brough peace in 1898.

*****

In January 1895, Nizam-ul-Mulk was murdered while out hawking at Broz, at the instigation of his younger half-brother, Amir-ul-Mulk. Amir-ul-Mulk then seized the Chitral fort and sent a deputation to Lieut. Gurdon, assistant political agent at Chitral, demanding his immediate recognition as Mehtar. Lieut. Gordon replied that the orders of the government must be awaited. Amir-ul-Mulk's sister was married to Umra Khan and there is little doubt that the murder of Nizam-ul-Mulk was inspired by Umra Khan in conjunction with the party of Sher Afzal. Amir-ul-Mulk being a tool in the hands of the Pathan Chief, who was used in a similar manner by the Amir of Afghanistan, Umra Khan remained in possession of the Narsat (or Narai) district, and all proposals of Nizam-ul-Mulk to attempt the recovery thereof by force had been discouraged. Shortly after the murder of Nizam, Umra Khan with a force of 1200 fighting men and 1500 coolies crossed the Lowari Pass and occupied Lower Chitral, giving out that he was conducting a religious war against the inhabitants (Kafirs) of the Bashgal area. He asked Amir-ul-Mulk to join him but the latter was both unwilling and unable to comply. Umra Khan accordingly laid siege to Drosh Fort. Meanwhile, the political agent at Gilgit, Surgeon Major George Robertson, had been sent to Chitral by the government to report on the situation with his escort of 400 men, 300 being Kashmir state forces. He occupied Chitral Fort. Robertson had previously demanded an explanation from Umra Khan as to the presence of his forces in Chitral and requested him to immediately withdraw. Umra Khan, however, replied that his aim had been to assist and strengthen Amir-ul-Mulk and combine with him on an attack on the Kafirs. Since Amir-ul-Mulk had refused his friendship and acted in a hostile manner, therefore he, Umra Khan, had no alternative left to him but to act as he had done. Owing to the poor and weak leadership of Amir-ul-Mulk and the treachery of Mehtarjao Kokhan Beg and other influential Chitralis, the resistance by the Chitralis collapsed and on 25th January 1895 they were driven away from their position before Drosh Fort itself until the 9th February when the whole garrison surrendered to Umra Khan. After losing the Drosh Fort, the Chitralis concentrated at Ghairat position.

According to the report of Surgeon Major George Robertson dated 1st February 1895, all was well at Chitral and the Chitralis were cheerful and helpful. He also reported that Ghairat, a strong defensive position 10 miles north of Drosh, was still held and that Umra Khan's followers had deserted him. Suddenly, however, the whole picture changed by the reappearance of Sher Afzal, who was supported by the ruling class of Adamzadas and their adherents. On the 27th of February, Sher Afzal demanded that Robertson along with his troops should withdraw to Mastuj and it became apparent that Sher Afzal and Umra Khan had joined hands to induce the British Officers and their troops to quit Chitral territory, by force if necessary. Having achieved that, the two chiefs would decide who should be the Mehtar. The Adamzadas in the beginning did not side openly with Sher Afzal, but before the end of February they changed their mind and practically joined him in a body along with their followers. Ghairat position was thus denuded of its defenders and was occupied by Sher Afzal's outposts. Mehtar Amir-ul-Mulk now made overtures to Umra Khan. Robertson therefore placed him in custody in the fort and formally recognized Shuja-ul-Mulk, a boy of 14 years old, provisional Mehtar pending orders of the Government of India.

The British garrison at Chitral Fort now amounted to 419 fighting men besides the administrative staff, transport personnel, servants and 52 Chitralis. The strength of Umra Khan's force is not known. It was variously computed at 3000 to 5000 men. On 3rd March, Sher Afzal arrived along with armed men following and took positions on the Chitral plain, mainly in the vicinity of the fort. In order to ascertain the strength of the enemy, the garrison of the fort made an ineffective sortie on the afternoon of 3rd March. They suffered heavy casualties and made a difficult retreat to the fort where they were besieged from 3rd March until 19th April, 1895. During the siege period, Chitralis gained two other successes firstly at Reshun where two British officers were captured, their following destroyed and 40,000 rounds of ammunition taken, secondly the annihilation of about 100 men of the 14th Sikhs under Captain Ross at Kuragh defile.

The British garrison at Chitral Fort held out until the approach of a small force from Gilgit under Colonel Kelly which caused Chitralis to withdraw. The Chitral relief under General Low which had approached from the direction of Malakand and the Lowari pass arrived a week later and took Sher Afzal prisoner, while Umra Khan fled to Afghanistan. Sher Afzal with Amir-ul-Mulk and their leading followers were deported to India on the 1st May and the selection of Shuja-ul-Mulk as Mehtar was conformed. A prominent British garrison was ordered to be located at Chitral and it comprised two infantry battalions, one company of Bengal Sappers and Miners and one section of Mountain Battery with two guns. This garrison was annually relieved.

Friday, April 3, 2009

Geology and Mineral Potential of Chitral Region

Mineral Potential of Chitral Region

Northern Pakistan where is the RL area is located has a complex history of crustal evolution and a rich diversity of geological environments which compare favorably with geological similar mineral producing areas elsewhere in the world.

Regional Geological Setting

Geographically the Chitral region occupies the northeastern extremities of 1200 km long Hindukush range where it represents a diffuse boundary with the Karakorum range at Hindu Raj mountain chain, east of Yarkhun valley. Geotechnically the area represent the western extremities of Himalayan Orogenic belt. Geologically the region comprises thick upper Paleozoic to Mesozoic and Tertiary tectonostraitigraphic sedimentary and valcanoplutonic sequences.

Geology of the Chitral region, in a broad sense, is represented by the occurrences of thick Paleozoic to Mesozoic sedimentary series of Hindukush Karakoram (Asia) plate to the north, and a dominant Cretaceous volcano-sedimentary sequence to the south. The Paleozoic to Mesozoic rock belts were strongly compressed and tectonically folded and faulted during the Cretaceous-Teritiary orogenic activites and were subjected to the emplacement of subduction related volcano plutonic complexes.

With reference to the relevant literature and field observations, the Chitral region is subdivided into five major tectonostratigraphic domains. From north to south, these are (1) Wakhan Formtion, (2) Tirich Mir Fault Zone, (3) Chitral Central Complex, (4) Northern Suture Zone and (5) Kohistan Arc Batholith.

Wakhan Formation

The Wakhan Formation of Permian to Jurassic age extend from Wakhan (Afghanistan) toward south in the northwest of Chitral and comprising a continuous zone of dark black homogenous slate, silt stone with marker beds of light quartzite and intercalations of Calcareous schist and marble (Buchroithner and Gamerith, 1986) and thick bedded dolomite (Gaetani and Leven, 1993).

Tirich Mir Fault Zone

The Tirich Mir Fault Zone represents the most prominent tectonic lineament with in Hindukush Karakorum plate separating the Wakhan Formation in the north from the Chitral Central Complex in the south. The fault zone is observed to have been associated with basic ultrabasic rocks of tens of meters to hundreds of meters in thickness.

Chitral Central Complex

The Chitral Central Complex is characterized by regionally important NE-SW trending vertical to subvertical longitudinal faults system along contact zones of rock inhomogeneties. The most important and prominent of these faults is the Reshun Fault of Tipper (in Pascoe, 1923) and Calkins etal (1981) which passes along centre of the complex and separate the Upper Paleozoic series to the north from Mesozoic sequence, to the south in the western part of Chitral. The sedimentary sequence north of Reshun Fault comprises dark gray slate to silt stone with minor intercalations of quartzites, calcareous schist and at places volcano sedimentary green stone beds and is also characterized by presence of thick fossiliferous Devonian Carbonate of Hayden (1915) immediately along the north of Reshun fault. This part of the complex coincide with the Sarikal shale of Hayden (1915), lun shale and north-west unit of Pudsey etal (1985), lun shale of Desio (1966) and Devonian to Carboniferous rocks of Calkins etal (1981). Immediately south of Reshun Fault the complex is represented by a varied Mesozoic lithologies of massive limestone (Shoghore limestone) followed by polymictic red conglomerate, shale, slate and siltstone (Reshun Formation), dark grey slate and siltstone with intercalations of quartzites, calcareous schist, conglomerate grey wacks and green stone (Chitral slate), chloritic epidiote quartz schist (Koghozi green schist) and coarse grained marble (Gahirate Marble) in the south-western part of Chitral, and Permo-carboniferous dark grey slate to siltsotne and quartzite with intercalations of calcareous rocks (Darkat Group of Ivanac etal, 1956) in the eastern part of the region.

Northern Suture Zone

The Northern Suture Zone is the major known tectonic scare of Himalayan Orogeny in Chitral region which separates Hindukush Karakoram plate in the north from Kohistan Arc Batholith Terrains to the south. The suture zone is characterised by the occurrence of blocks of volcanic rocks, limestone, red shale, conglomerate, quartzite, and serpentinite in a shaly to slatty matrix mostly derived from the Kohistan Arc terrains and have preserved in the small back arc basin which closed 102-85 Ma (Treloar, 1989 b) and is interpreted as olistostromal in nature (Pudsey etal 1985, Pudsey 1986, Sear etal 1987, and Searl 1991).

Kohistan Arc Batholith

The Kohistan Arc Batholith represent late Jurassic to early Cretaceous tholeitic to clalcalkaline volcanics (Shalt-Drosh volcanic group) late early Cenozoic acidic lava flows and pyroclastic volcanics (Dir Shamran volcanic group) and Cretaceous to Tertiary intrusion of Kohistan Batholith.

Wednesday, April 1, 2009

LOWARI TOP



Lowari Top
The 3118 meter forested pass between Dir and Chitral is normally open to vehicles from June through at least October. It’s incredible how the weather beaten road scrambles over it, laboring in wide loops up the Dir side; and then plunging into Chitral in about 50 sphincter tightening switchbacks. It is roughly a 70 km or 3 1/2 hours drive between Dir town and Drosh on the Chitral side. However, don't be mistaken about this short distance. Visitors, for example travelling from Peshawar to Chitral, might have to travel for 14-15 hours before reaching their destination.

The summit of Lowari Top is mostly covered in clouds throughout the year. But lucky travellers can experience a breath taking view on both sides on a clear sunny day. There are high winds on the summit at all times which may not be enough to blow you off but are enough to carry away your hats or other small things so hold on tight to them. Upon reaching the summit, the visitor will find a humble stone made hut which acts as a customs checkpost and an adjacent Chai Khana (Tea Stall).

In early and late summer you may see gypsy Gujar families on the road with their tents and their belongings. A hole is in the mountainside on the south side is one end of a tunnel meant to go under the summit to make the crossing possible all year round. But there are technical and financial problems and it may never be finished.

SHANDUR POLO TOURNAMENT


Shandur Polo Tournament
The most exciting polo tournament of the entire Northern Areas is played on top of the Shandur Pass, almost 4000 meters above sea level; a place unique and exotic in itself surrounded by some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in the world. The event marks the annual rivalry between the polo teams of Gilgit and Chitral.

The Shandur Polo Tournament also has some added attractions for the visitors. These include a Golf tournament at the Shandur Golf ground, also reputedly the highest golf ground in the world; a trout fishing competition at the neighboring streams and takes abound with trout; other equestrian events and a festival of folk dances of the Northern Areas. The Shandur Polo Tournament offers much more than an ordinary festival stretching over five days and four nights.

The highlight of all festivals of course remains the final match between the Gilgit and Chitral polo teams. Polo is played here in its original state with a minimum of rules and provides a most colorful spectacle. Supporters of both sides travel long distances from the remote parts of Chitral and Gilgit areas in order to be present at the thrilling tournament. The event, as such, provides a fascinating insight into the lifestyle of the ordinary people of these regions. Their culture and indigenous customs are a delight to behold for the visitors.

Shandur offers crystal clear lakes, snow covered mountains and alpine flowers amidst vast stretches of green grass. A tourist village comprising tents and restaurant springs up during the tournament. This is usually a couple of days each year. The rest of the year, this area is a wilderness. Merchants from Chitral and Gilgit set up Souvenir and Folk craft shops. The tournament offers visitors an opportunity to mix with the locals of these areas as well.

There is also the all famous Chitrali Dance performed during this occassion. Traditionally, this dance used to be performed as a warm up before battles and also as a celebration after winning those battles. Because of this, this dance is only performed by men. The dance in itself is an elegant display of body maneouvering and twirling shoulders and arms performed by men in white Shalwar Qamees, Red Waistcoats and White Curled Hats that are referred to as Pakols in Afghanistan and Chitrali Hats in Pakistan

Birmoghlasht chitral



Birmoghlasht
Birmoghlasht has an elevation of 2743 meters (9,900 feet) and is 15 km (9 miles) away. This mountain top towers over the Chitral town and worth visiting in this area is the fairy-tale summer palace of the Mahtar of Chitral (ex-ruler) perched at a height of 2743 meters (9,000 feet). It offers awe-inspiring views of Trichmir and panoramic vistas of the valleys below. The fort is approachable by both a narrow winding road and by foot as well. The quickest method to reach Birmoghlasht would be by foot or alternatively, one can hire a 'local' driver. These local drivers are renowned for maneuvering their vehicles through the narrowest of roads at incredibly high speeds for the road they are traveling on; quite a feat considering that the nearest thing close to the road may be a straight fall to the bottom of a valley or a fast moving, cracking, roaring river.

Garam Chashma chitral.


Garam Chashma
Garam Chashma as an elevation of 1859 meters (6,100 feet). It is 45 km North West of Chitral and takes 3 hours to reach by jeep. Visitors have to take a spectacular drive up the Latbo/Latkho River through deep and narrow gorges to reach this place. This unspoiled enchanting valley of orchards, verdant fields and snow clad peaks is renowned for its boiling Sulphur springs which are famous for healing effect on skin diseases, gout, rheumatism and chronic headaches. For the convenience of tourists "hamams" (baths) have been constructed near the springs. Foreign tourists are requested to pay a toll tax of Rs. 5.00 per person.

sports of chitral.



Sports of chitral.
Polo is the most popular sport of Chitral. It holds similar importance amongst the Chitral & Gilgit populations. Polo matches are great attractions and festive occasions for all tourists. Even if you do'nt have a knack for this game you'll surely love the atmosphere it creates. A regular Polo tournament (Shandur Polo Tournament) is held every year (First week of July) at Shandur Pass.Polo is a team sport played on horseback where the aim is to score goals against your opponents. Riders score by driving a ball into the opposing team's goal using a long-handled mallet. Goals are only valid if the scoring rider is mounted. When played outdoors, each Polo team fields a team of four riders and their mounts. In the indoor variant ("Arena Polo"), each team fields only 3 players. In both versions of the sport, play occurs in seven-minute periods, called chukkers. Six chukkers is considered the norm, but depending on league rules, matches can also have four or eight chukkers.

The word "polo" is Balti for "ball". Polo was probably developed first in Skardu (Baltistan), Ladakh (northern Pakistan), the Kargil area of India, and in a few places of Tibet and Nepal. The earliest evidence of polo is found in a 4000-4500 year-old Balti story named 'Hilafoo Kaisaar'. In northern Pakistan, where Polo is still played in its original form (free-style), a local variant is called Chogan.
It is indeed a wonderful tourist attraction!

Traditions of Chitral

Traditions of chitral

The Muslim tradition of offering hospitality to the 'muzzafer', the traveller, is observed throughout Pakistan's Northern Areas, but in few places is it offered so genuinely as in Chitral. If someone should invite you to stay in his house, it will be an unforgettable experience. Most village homes in Chitral have a large family room called "Baipash". In the middle of the Baipash is a fire place with home spun rugs arranged near it upon which the family and neighbours sit. Some well-to-do people have a separate room especially for visitors called an "Angotee".

Chitral has a strong musical tradition. The "Chitrali Sitar" a graceful string instrument, is heard daily at small workingmen's teahouses in Chitral Bazaar. The 'Chenai' and 'Dol' (Oboe and Drums) frenetically accompany all polo matches.

The Kalash women wear five large braids of and the 'Cheo', a black woolen homespun dress, red-beaded necklaces by the dozen, and an exceptional head piece (shaped differently in each valley) covered in cowrie shells, beads and trinkets that flow down their back.

The Kalash are a friendly and cheerful bunch, who love music and dancing, particularly on their religious festivals like Joshi Chilimjusht (From 14th - 21st December).

Chitral valley Geography

The Chitral Valley


The Chitral Valley located at an elevation of 1,128 metres is one of the most popular spots amongst mountaineers, anglers, hunters, hikers, naturalists and anthropologists. The 7,705 metres Tirich Mir, the highest peak of the Hindukush mountains, dominates this 322 kms long exotic valley.


Geography
The easiest access to Chitral is in the southwest along the Chitral/Kunar valley towards Jalalabad; this route is open all year and provides direct access to Kabul. However the Pakistan-Afghanistan border prevents this being used as an internal route to Peshawar and the south.

The other routes are over mountain passes. To the south, the Lowari Pass (3,200 m or 10,499 ft) leads 365 km (227 mi) to the region of Peshawar; this is now a road road. In the north, the easiest route during summer (it is closed by snow in the winter), and the only one which allows the use of pack animals, runs over the Broghol Pass (3,798 m or 12,460 ft) to Afghanistan's Wakhan Corridor. To the east, there is a 405 km (252 mi) route to Gilgit over the 3,719 m (12,201 ft) Shandur Pass. And in the west, the Dorah Pass provides an additional route to Afghanistan. The territory is home to rare falcons and the snow leopard, and is cut off by snow from the rest of the country for six months a year.

The Chitral district has Afghanistan at its north, south and west. A narrow strip of Afghan territory, Wakhan, separates it from Tajikistan. The tourist season in Chitral is from June to September. The maximum temperature in June is 35 C and the minimum is 19 C. In September, the maximum goes upto 24 C and the minimum temperature falls down to 8 C. Which makes your stay pleasant and comfortable.

LANGUAGE OF CHITRAL

Language of chitral.

Khowar is the language of the chitral, spoken everywhere in Chitral, which is in the far Northwest corner of Pakistan; a beautiful valley in the Hindukush range of Mountains. Khowar is classified as an Indo-European language of the Dardic Group. It is spoken as the primary language by 250,000 people in Chitral. There are also pockets of speakers in Gilgit. It is clear that the current Chitralis have lived in their mountain home for 3,000 to 4,000 years.The people of Chitral are called Kho. Traditionally they are peaceful and law abiding citizens.
Khowar has 42 phonemes. Several of these are not found in any other language of the region. The letters /t/, /th/, /d/, /l/, /sh/, /ch/, /chh/, and /j/ all have two different forms, one retroflexed and the other dential-veolar non-retroflexed. Every Chitrali who learned the language on his mother's knee can readily distinguish these forms, whereas others can never learn them, regardless of how long they have lived in Chitral.
Khowar does not have a written form in common use. Before 1947, written communications in Chitral were in Farsi, which explains the large number of Farsi loan words. Today, written communications are in Urdu. Several attempts have been made to introduce a Urdu or Roman based writing script into Khowar, but these have never gained widespread acceptance.......

HISTORY OF KALASH


History
The Kalash were ruled by the Mehtar of Chitral from the 1700s onward. They have enjoyed a cordial relationship with the major ethnic group of Chitral, the Kho who are Sunni and Ismaili Muslims. The multi-ethnic and multi-religious State of Chitral ensured that the Kalash were able to live in peace and harmony and practice their culture and religion. The Nuristani, their neighbors in the region of former Kafiristan west of the border, were invaded in the 1890s and converted to Islam by Amir Abdur-Rahman of Afghanistan and their land was renamed Nuristan.

Prior to that event, the people of Kafiristan had paid tribute to the Mehtar of Chitral and accepted his suzerainty. This came to an end with the Durand Agreement when Kafiristan fell under the Afghan sphere of Influence. Recently, the Kalash have been able to stop their demographic and cultural spiral towards extinction and have, for the past 30 years, been on the rebound. Increased international awareness, a more tolerant government, and monetary assistance has allowed them to continue their way of life. Their numbers remain stable at around 3,000. Although many convert to Islam, the high birth rate replaces them, and with medical facilities (previously there were none) they live longer.

Allegations of "immorality" connected with their practices have led to the forcible conversion to Islam of several villages in the 1950s, which has led to heightened antagonism between the Kalash and the surrounding Muslims. Since the 1970s, schools and roads were built in some valleys.

KALASH


About Kalash

We the Kalasha community, drastically reduced in size due to the large-scale conversions between 1769 and 1900, are now mainly concentrated in the narrow valleys of Bumburate, Rumbur and Birir in the east of Chitral, numbering around 4,000, we in the past, have suffered persecution, and, because of our remoteness, have been cut off from many essential amenities. Now we are exploited by outsiders who have depleted our wildlife, destroyed our forests and now threaten our culture with uncontrolled tourism.
We the Kalasha are one of the greatest, if not the main attraction for the visitors to the North-West Frontier Province.
We the Kalasha follow our own ancient religion, customs and beliefs. We are docile and peace loving people.

KALASH VALLEYS

Bumburet Valley:

Bumburet is the largest Valley. With its sparkling streams, shady meadows, groves of mulberry, apricot and walnut trees, wide mountain vistas and yellow and green fields, it is thought by any to be the most beautiful. Most of the hotels are run by outside Moslems, so that there is little economic benefit for the Kalasha. At the top end of the 9-mile valley, near the government rest house, there is a Nuristani village. Here begins the route, through a side valley, which leads on to the Shawal Pass, the highest into Nuristan and once a trail belonging to the ancient Silk Road. Here the great cedar trees still cling to the mountain sides.

Rumbor Valley:


Rumbur, which lies to the north of Bumburet, has fewer Moslem homesteads and sees fewer tourists. It is considerably narrower than Bumburet, and without that valley’s numerous shady meadows, Rumbur is rugged and majestic; the mountain ridges higher, the river much wilder. As there are few tourists, the Kalasha are less shy and less nervous. No one if asked, objects to having their photograph taken or asks for money for posing. Only seldom does the sound of jeeps destroy the peaceful silence of the valley. Again, at the very top end of the valley, there is a Nuristani village.


Birir Valley:

At first glance, Birir seems terribly narrow and uninteresting in comparison to the other valleys, although it is actually wider than Rumbur. There are fewer shady meadows here than in Bumburet, and the valleys is not so open. Moreover, at this level (it has the lowest altitude of all three valleys, is the hottest and grows the best grapes), it does not have the majestic awe-inspiring ruggedness of Rumbur. But the narrow rocky valley, with the shallow river running down its centre, is full of ‘secret’ nooks, where the emerald turf is splashed with sparkling rivulets of water. Higher up the mountain slopes, through the branches of the trees, the rugged mountain tops of the Hindu Kush appear stretched out on the horizon, while others loom in close, dark and mysterious or bathed in glorious sunlight.

Sunday, March 29, 2009